After seeing a number of IVA posts on RHOCAR regarding the time taken to get an IVA, I have sent my IVA application forms off today. Hopefully they are all correct, fairly straight forward but always take your time with them.
I have seen waiting times of up to 5 weeks, so should have plenty of time to get the car finished and IVA ready. Will probably give the process 2 weeks before following it up to see how soon I can realistically get a test and push the car through just that bit quicker.....otherwise the sun will well and truly have gone for this year :(
The money went quick! I had a phone call in only a couple working days to take my payment! Efficiency at it's finest! If only the rest of the process goes so well.
Friday, 30 August 2013
Sunday, 18 August 2013
Engine Running Happily!
During the build, you will set yourself some major milestones. The popular few are:
What I thought was a fuelling issue, followed by a fuel pump issue, turned out to be wrong. I have found that the fuel pumps operate via the circuit opening relay. Originally I thought this was knackered which at £80 for a new one was a bit steep for a potential replacement considering they're meant to last forever, so I decided on finding a way to bypass this. Turns out this can be done through the diagnostics plug by jumping the F/P and GND ports with a wire. Did this, fuel pumps worked. Fantastic! However probably not the best idea for a permanent replacement...unfortunately this didn't solve the problem. Update from 04/09/13 - Turns out my fuel pump and gauge are actually working as they should now...so the problem went away from that point of view....might be a little bit dodgy, sticking relay maybe, on its way out? I'll just put this knowledge safely away for the time it stops working.
I tried to fiddle with the Idle Control Valve too, thinking it was somehow too low....still no success.
Staring at the intake manifold and engine I noticed a pipe at the back which obviously used to be connected to something, however I have no idea what. I could hold an unsteady idle (1500-2000) turning the throttle pulley, trying to figure out if I could do that somehow. Then something happened...I don't know why or how it did but it just did, I must have been possessed by the kit car God, looking over my build....I put my finger over the pipe, blocking it off....
I let go of the throttle and sat there as my finger slowly got sucked into the pipe...smoooooth idle! I let go and it died. Simple problem really. The intake wasn't getting a proper vacuum, hence the chaotic revs and cutting out.
I found a bit of rubber off-cut from the IVA covers for the steering arms, held on tight with a jubilee clip to prevent it being sucked in (shouldn't but better safe than sorry) and voila!
Engine was ticking over by itself!
Well you know what this means! In tribute to Tony Stark after building the Iron Man suit "Sometimes you gotta run before you can walk" I hoped in and had a little test up and down the driveway. It's only about 20-30 metres but it was enough to get the car driving under it's own power!
All the hard work and troubles I've had just melted away to be replaced by my HUUUGE grin! Just from crawling in first gear, I can already tell this is going to be a quick car. I just can't wait to get a chance to properly get it going.
- Donor Stripped Fully
- Kit Collection
- Rolling Chassis
- Engine In
- Engine Working
- Movement
- Completion
What I thought was a fuelling issue, followed by a fuel pump issue, turned out to be wrong. I have found that the fuel pumps operate via the circuit opening relay. Originally I thought this was knackered which at £80 for a new one was a bit steep for a potential replacement considering they're meant to last forever, so I decided on finding a way to bypass this. Turns out this can be done through the diagnostics plug by jumping the F/P and GND ports with a wire. Did this, fuel pumps worked. Fantastic! However probably not the best idea for a permanent replacement...unfortunately this didn't solve the problem. Update from 04/09/13 - Turns out my fuel pump and gauge are actually working as they should now...so the problem went away from that point of view....might be a little bit dodgy, sticking relay maybe, on its way out? I'll just put this knowledge safely away for the time it stops working.
I tried to fiddle with the Idle Control Valve too, thinking it was somehow too low....still no success.
Staring at the intake manifold and engine I noticed a pipe at the back which obviously used to be connected to something, however I have no idea what. I could hold an unsteady idle (1500-2000) turning the throttle pulley, trying to figure out if I could do that somehow. Then something happened...I don't know why or how it did but it just did, I must have been possessed by the kit car God, looking over my build....I put my finger over the pipe, blocking it off....
I let go of the throttle and sat there as my finger slowly got sucked into the pipe...smoooooth idle! I let go and it died. Simple problem really. The intake wasn't getting a proper vacuum, hence the chaotic revs and cutting out.
I found a bit of rubber off-cut from the IVA covers for the steering arms, held on tight with a jubilee clip to prevent it being sucked in (shouldn't but better safe than sorry) and voila!
Engine was ticking over by itself!
Well you know what this means! In tribute to Tony Stark after building the Iron Man suit "Sometimes you gotta run before you can walk" I hoped in and had a little test up and down the driveway. It's only about 20-30 metres but it was enough to get the car driving under it's own power!
All the hard work and troubles I've had just melted away to be replaced by my HUUUGE grin! Just from crawling in first gear, I can already tell this is going to be a quick car. I just can't wait to get a chance to properly get it going.
Thursday, 15 August 2013
Exhaust Silencer.....supposedly.
I was going to leave the exhaust silencer off for as long as possible due to it sticking out and the chance of kicking it when I'm working around the car, but I decided it was time to put it on and get it out of the way storage wise.
The manifold needs to be trimmed back by around half in my experience (the end part where the silencer will attach over). I also split the silencer end by cutting two slots down the shaft to allow it to slide on and clamp down. Turned out the fit is pretty snug so some lubrication is advised. I settled on Vaseline (due to being used at work when building engines etc), so a healthy dollop of lube and a bit of man-handling, it was forced to fit....if you read that and chuckled, you are just filthy minded!
With the silencer forced on, it actually likes to sit very close to the side panel. Hence the bracket, bolted on to fit around the exit of the exhaust, it holds it in place, away from the bodywork and stops it sliding off the manifold.
Just got to add some exhaust wrapping to tidy it up a bit and cover sharp edges. The IVA can be quite strict on the retaining spring on the exhaust bracket so I've heard...
Now that the exhaust "silencer" is on, it was getting late and I wanted to put the car back in the garage before bed. I'm still waiting to hear what the sound is like on this machine but waiting for the coolant to be plumbed in before giving it a try.....well, that quickly went out the window. With the night coming in and wanting the car back in the garage, I just thought, well sod it lets go for it! Can't be bothered pushing it anymore.
Battery connected up, everything set, still got a bit of fuel left from checking the fuel pumps and system for leaks. Go for it!
A bit of cranking then BBRRRUUUUUUUMMMMMM! off it went...then clunk. Tried again, same happened. It would start up then cut out at idle, however it's fine if the revs are kept up. Initial thoughts were a fuelling issue, maybe there isn't enough but surely a few litres shouldn't cause that. Lack of pressure? Air bubbles in the system? Either way, the engine works and the noise pedal was quite sensitive with my big old work trainers on. Revs kept high, clutch up to reverse....found the biting point as I shot backwards...brakes work too. Got the car into the garage and let it cut out again.
Wow. What a noise. I have the lambda plug out so didn't help keep it quiet, maybe affected the engine cutting out. Anyway, it moves under its own power albeit temporarily. A bit of investigation the next day and I've found there is no power to either fuel pump. Looks like something has come loose. They worked when directly connected to the battery so time to find the wiring fault....thought I'd finished with this! Anyway, nearly there now!
The manifold needs to be trimmed back by around half in my experience (the end part where the silencer will attach over). I also split the silencer end by cutting two slots down the shaft to allow it to slide on and clamp down. Turned out the fit is pretty snug so some lubrication is advised. I settled on Vaseline (due to being used at work when building engines etc), so a healthy dollop of lube and a bit of man-handling, it was forced to fit....if you read that and chuckled, you are just filthy minded!
With the silencer forced on, it actually likes to sit very close to the side panel. Hence the bracket, bolted on to fit around the exit of the exhaust, it holds it in place, away from the bodywork and stops it sliding off the manifold.
Just got to add some exhaust wrapping to tidy it up a bit and cover sharp edges. The IVA can be quite strict on the retaining spring on the exhaust bracket so I've heard...
Now that the exhaust "silencer" is on, it was getting late and I wanted to put the car back in the garage before bed. I'm still waiting to hear what the sound is like on this machine but waiting for the coolant to be plumbed in before giving it a try.....well, that quickly went out the window. With the night coming in and wanting the car back in the garage, I just thought, well sod it lets go for it! Can't be bothered pushing it anymore.
Battery connected up, everything set, still got a bit of fuel left from checking the fuel pumps and system for leaks. Go for it!
A bit of cranking then BBRRRUUUUUUUMMMMMM! off it went...then clunk. Tried again, same happened. It would start up then cut out at idle, however it's fine if the revs are kept up. Initial thoughts were a fuelling issue, maybe there isn't enough but surely a few litres shouldn't cause that. Lack of pressure? Air bubbles in the system? Either way, the engine works and the noise pedal was quite sensitive with my big old work trainers on. Revs kept high, clutch up to reverse....found the biting point as I shot backwards...brakes work too. Got the car into the garage and let it cut out again.
Wow. What a noise. I have the lambda plug out so didn't help keep it quiet, maybe affected the engine cutting out. Anyway, it moves under its own power albeit temporarily. A bit of investigation the next day and I've found there is no power to either fuel pump. Looks like something has come loose. They worked when directly connected to the battery so time to find the wiring fault....thought I'd finished with this! Anyway, nearly there now!
Saturday, 10 August 2013
Bonnet, Nose Cone, Dashboard and Propshaft 2.0
First thing first, I now have my correctly sized propshaft returned from GBS and it's a perfect fit. Took a couple hours to get in due to not being able to slot it in between the diff and gearbox and having to drop the diff out. Easy I thought. Well, turns out that one of the nuts appears to have stripped the treads or cross threaded into a loop to the extent that it looked to be coming undone but in fact was just spinning on the bolt. Anyway, after a bit of angle grinding, I got the bolt out. Bit embarrassing when someone stated that I got the engine running.....it was actually my 1kW generator.....if it sounded like that I would not be impressed.
Anyway, it's in and is looking good....if you ignore the wiring tape and mess, it still needs tidying up properly.
With that in, I hit the dashboard. Wanted to get this finished and in to start seeing what the car will be like when it's finished. If you've followed the blog religiously, you'll remember I bought some stainless trim to help cover up the mistakes/poor handiwork etc etc. Anyway, settled on black and covered the GRP with black too for the gaps. Finish product looked something like this:
From the driving position though, it covers part of the speedo...I'm not sure how strict they are with this as I shouldn't be driving at 100mph anyway....supposedly. Will double check this...
Gearbox also got filled with oil, the problem with this is the positioning of the filler plug. Not only is it a square plug (daft really, shredded knuckles getting that out!) it is also in the most awkward place ever! I had to bend a tiny funnel into the hole to get it in and then use a pipe to pour it in. 2 litres later and it's full, I'd lost track of time....
Top tip!
Do this before putting the foot well side panel on.
With the bonnet, an exhaust slot needs to be made. I have seen numerous blogs where a template is made, so an off cut of card did the job nicely. Drew the outline, hacksaw and file and got the rough shape I wanted. I had to re-adjust too and open up the back end a little bit
Not a bad fit in the end. I finished it off with a bit of the thicker black trim so looks like a nice curved finish. Hopefully its fairly heat resistant, otherwise something may have to replace it.
I also used the same for the ends of the bonnet, looks good, keeping the orange and black theme running a bit better than the chrome style trim.
With the bonnet trial fitted, I next decided to whack on the nose cone. This was fairly straight forward, I lined up the two A-frames on either side of the chassis and marked up some holes. I tried for a rivnut in here but the sizing wasn't right so opted for M10 bolts and nuts. Currently I have just a plain nut, however I may upgrade this to a turret lock nut when it's finished....unsure yet as I'd need spanners to get it off.
I have seen a number of ways to do the bonnet catches. One recommended way was to fasten the bottom to a bit of wood or spare aluminium and use blue tack to figure out the closed positioning.
Pre fitted left, fitted right.
In my opinion, the easiest way is to attach the bottom (mine ended up in the top chassis rail) and measure upwards roughly to where the catch should sit, then add 5-10mm depending on how tight you want it. I used ratchet straps to pull the bonnet down and still added 5mm on, better to be tight than loose!
I've also added a strip of 3mm neoprene to the bonnet surface to add a bit of cushion and to be compressed to ensure a snug, tight fit.
Well then, bonnet, nose cone and dashboard are in. It's looking so much more car like now. Next up is the exhaust silencer as I get closer and closer to firing it up properly now. Don't want to upset the neighbours too much! rotational photos....go!
p.s. ignore the front cycle wings on top of the rear arches, they're just stored there until fitting.
Back in the garage safe and sound. I must say, seeing the car like this is just amazing and it's so hard to believe that 5 months ago, it was just a chassis. I have impressed myself with the speed at which this has been built, I am just looking forward to getting it finished and having a good drive in the sun with it.
With that in, I hit the dashboard. Wanted to get this finished and in to start seeing what the car will be like when it's finished. If you've followed the blog religiously, you'll remember I bought some stainless trim to help cover up the mistakes/poor handiwork etc etc. Anyway, settled on black and covered the GRP with black too for the gaps. Finish product looked something like this:
From the driving position though, it covers part of the speedo...I'm not sure how strict they are with this as I shouldn't be driving at 100mph anyway....supposedly. Will double check this...
Gearbox also got filled with oil, the problem with this is the positioning of the filler plug. Not only is it a square plug (daft really, shredded knuckles getting that out!) it is also in the most awkward place ever! I had to bend a tiny funnel into the hole to get it in and then use a pipe to pour it in. 2 litres later and it's full, I'd lost track of time....
Top tip!
Do this before putting the foot well side panel on.
With the bonnet, an exhaust slot needs to be made. I have seen numerous blogs where a template is made, so an off cut of card did the job nicely. Drew the outline, hacksaw and file and got the rough shape I wanted. I had to re-adjust too and open up the back end a little bit
Not a bad fit in the end. I finished it off with a bit of the thicker black trim so looks like a nice curved finish. Hopefully its fairly heat resistant, otherwise something may have to replace it.
I also used the same for the ends of the bonnet, looks good, keeping the orange and black theme running a bit better than the chrome style trim.
I have seen a number of ways to do the bonnet catches. One recommended way was to fasten the bottom to a bit of wood or spare aluminium and use blue tack to figure out the closed positioning.
Pre fitted left, fitted right.
In my opinion, the easiest way is to attach the bottom (mine ended up in the top chassis rail) and measure upwards roughly to where the catch should sit, then add 5-10mm depending on how tight you want it. I used ratchet straps to pull the bonnet down and still added 5mm on, better to be tight than loose!
I've also added a strip of 3mm neoprene to the bonnet surface to add a bit of cushion and to be compressed to ensure a snug, tight fit.
Well then, bonnet, nose cone and dashboard are in. It's looking so much more car like now. Next up is the exhaust silencer as I get closer and closer to firing it up properly now. Don't want to upset the neighbours too much! rotational photos....go!
p.s. ignore the front cycle wings on top of the rear arches, they're just stored there until fitting.
Back in the garage safe and sound. I must say, seeing the car like this is just amazing and it's so hard to believe that 5 months ago, it was just a chassis. I have impressed myself with the speed at which this has been built, I am just looking forward to getting it finished and having a good drive in the sun with it.
Friday, 2 August 2013
No Spark - On going log.
Well, as the title says, I am having trouble getting a spark from the engine. Asking around there are so many things that can be the problem. So enjoy the list!
This list is neither exhaustive nor specific. The problem could be a single problem or a collection of several.
Testing a couple of them is fairly straight forward and with simple tests can eliminate a few or leave you still looking for a solution but a little more direction on where.
Week of Saturday 27/07/2013 to Friday 02/08/2013
The route I took was measuring the earth points and ensuring power to the pack. Rumour has it that old 1.8 Mx5s had a problem with the coil packs where they would burn out if the ignition was left on but not running for a prolonged period. I must admit, figuring my lights out, it had been, plus with filling with fuel to ensure the air was as cleared out as much as possible. Despite the 1.6 versions not seeing this problem, on a 23 year old coil pack, it was a possibility anyway. Plus removing the HT leads revealed a rather sorry looking pack which had melted a bit and build up of electric dusting of some sort on the connections.
First thing to test was the earth connection. Remove all the spark plugs, lay the body of the plug on the chassis to ensure a good earth or link straight back to the negative terminal on the battery and crank it over.
My pack has arrived today, Friday 02/08/2013, so this weekend, hopefully the engine will be running....or at least make sure I am sparking as I haven't plumbed in any coolant hoses. Would hate to cook the engine before I'm even finished or spew any leftover coolant all over the engine bay! Probably just make sure I have a spark is the main thing....
Weekend Saturday 03/08/2013 > Sunday 04/08/2013
Ok, so new coil pack fitted, HT leads and spark plugs. After properly removing my old coil pack, it really did look bad, melted and build up of sh*t where the HT leads attach. Well that must have been the problem, burnt out and generally knackered.
Plugged in and ready to go.....nothing. Still no spark :(
Stuart (theduck - Rhocar) offered to come and check that it wasn't something obvious like a bad earth connection, however still have a load of head scratching and some proper checking, still no spark.
We settled that the ECU is the only thing that we need confirming to work considering all my power connections appear to be right, and is the only thing left from the separate donor that I don't know if it was actually running or not. So my plan is to take that to an MX5 breaker I know of and see if they will plug it in and try, see if it is working or not.
However, Stuart being stumped and having it bug him as to why is wasn't working, found a forum post from an MX5 forum which had similar issues and concluded it to be a faulty Mass Air Flow sensor. Now I wouldn't have thought this would be an issue and has caught a couple of guys by surprise, but for £30 second hand "tested and working", it is worth a shot. That is due to arrive this week. I can live with a second hand unit that is suppose to be working due to a brand new one costing £450!! :O
Anyway, coolant pipes are due to arrive the same time so will plumb that in properly before trying again, worse thing is getting it running and then cooking the engine!
Watch this space!
Anyway, the cause for the MAF sensor preventing a spark is unclear. My understanding is that the sensor was causing the ECU to register no air flow, so possibly prevented putting in fuel and/or a spark. Other than that, I can't figure out the actual reason but it's sorted now so that answer will do.
Onwards and upwards!
- Poor earth connection
- Faulty spark plugs
- Faulty HT leads
- Faulty coil pack
- Faulty Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF)
- Faulty Cam(shaft) Angle Sensor (CAS)
- Faulty Crank(shaft) Position Sensor (CPS)
- Faulty ECU
- Built in immobiliser
- Incorrect Wiring
- Rust/Corrosion on connections etc.
- Mx5 common fault of the coil pack
- Starter motor issues
- Various sensor issues
- Faulty Relays
- Ignition/Power feed issues.
This list is neither exhaustive nor specific. The problem could be a single problem or a collection of several.
Testing a couple of them is fairly straight forward and with simple tests can eliminate a few or leave you still looking for a solution but a little more direction on where.
Week of Saturday 27/07/2013 to Friday 02/08/2013
The route I took was measuring the earth points and ensuring power to the pack. Rumour has it that old 1.8 Mx5s had a problem with the coil packs where they would burn out if the ignition was left on but not running for a prolonged period. I must admit, figuring my lights out, it had been, plus with filling with fuel to ensure the air was as cleared out as much as possible. Despite the 1.6 versions not seeing this problem, on a 23 year old coil pack, it was a possibility anyway. Plus removing the HT leads revealed a rather sorry looking pack which had melted a bit and build up of electric dusting of some sort on the connections.
First thing to test was the earth connection. Remove all the spark plugs, lay the body of the plug on the chassis to ensure a good earth or link straight back to the negative terminal on the battery and crank it over.
- A spark means you have an earthing issue.
- No spark means you have eliminated the main cause that it isn't only an earthing problem.
My pack has arrived today, Friday 02/08/2013, so this weekend, hopefully the engine will be running....or at least make sure I am sparking as I haven't plumbed in any coolant hoses. Would hate to cook the engine before I'm even finished or spew any leftover coolant all over the engine bay! Probably just make sure I have a spark is the main thing....
Weekend Saturday 03/08/2013 > Sunday 04/08/2013
Ok, so new coil pack fitted, HT leads and spark plugs. After properly removing my old coil pack, it really did look bad, melted and build up of sh*t where the HT leads attach. Well that must have been the problem, burnt out and generally knackered.
Plugged in and ready to go.....nothing. Still no spark :(
Stuart (theduck - Rhocar) offered to come and check that it wasn't something obvious like a bad earth connection, however still have a load of head scratching and some proper checking, still no spark.
We settled that the ECU is the only thing that we need confirming to work considering all my power connections appear to be right, and is the only thing left from the separate donor that I don't know if it was actually running or not. So my plan is to take that to an MX5 breaker I know of and see if they will plug it in and try, see if it is working or not.
However, Stuart being stumped and having it bug him as to why is wasn't working, found a forum post from an MX5 forum which had similar issues and concluded it to be a faulty Mass Air Flow sensor. Now I wouldn't have thought this would be an issue and has caught a couple of guys by surprise, but for £30 second hand "tested and working", it is worth a shot. That is due to arrive this week. I can live with a second hand unit that is suppose to be working due to a brand new one costing £450!! :O
Anyway, coolant pipes are due to arrive the same time so will plumb that in properly before trying again, worse thing is getting it running and then cooking the engine!
Watch this space!
Friday 09/08/13
Success!!!
After fitting the "new" MAF sensor, the spark plugs sparked up first time! Big thanks to Stuart (theduck - Rhocar) for finding the relevant thread that suggested this solution. It now means I can really crack on with the build over the rest of the weekend instead of worrying about a knackered engine :) I am yet to give it a proper fire up due to not having the coolant plumbed in fully. Last thing I need now is to cook the engine!Anyway, the cause for the MAF sensor preventing a spark is unclear. My understanding is that the sensor was causing the ECU to register no air flow, so possibly prevented putting in fuel and/or a spark. Other than that, I can't figure out the actual reason but it's sorted now so that answer will do.
Onwards and upwards!
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